If we now
cross the Via dei Fori Imperiali once again to go towards the area of the
Palatine and the Roman forum, we pass next to the churches of Santi Cosma and
Damiano and of San Lorenzo in Miranda, rising out of the temples of the Via
Sacra. While the Roman Forum may have seemed alive from the Capitoline hill,
down here it is very different. The single monuments still evoke images and
visions of ancient Rome, but in its whole, it seems covered with an arcane sense
of peace and serenity which emanates more from the rich vegetation than from the
ruins and remains of the monuments around which these plants grow and form a
beautiful frame, and especially from the laurel green crown of the Palatine
which dominates the entire, incomparable scenario. Take a look at the solitary
couples of lovers or the seminaries from every country dressed in their
multicoloured tunics. One is almost led to abandon oneself to the physical
pleasures of ecstatic contemplation of nature, which here has the power of
magical enchantment. But from the ruins of the Forum a voice of warning arises
even stronger than the voice of Nature, for its is the solemn voice of history:
"Here, each stone has its name. Here each ruin has its
glory."
Thus let us let the ruins, the arches and the columns
speak for themselves and try to imagine the Forum in its grandeur, unique in the
world. On the right towards what is now the Via dei Fori Imperiali is the
Basilica Emilia, divided into five naves by four rows of African marble columns,
and in front of it is an edicola dedicated to Venus Cloacina, where Virginio
slit the breast of his daughter to prevent her from dishonour, signalling the
beginning of the revolt against the tyranny of the decemvirate. Then we have the
solemn Curia which with its rich multicoloured pavement and bronze doors
constituted the seat of the Roman Senate and where the statue of Victory was
held. Before the Curia is the Comitium or Piazza of the Comizi and joined to it
is a portico of the Secretariat of the Senate. From here Rome dominated until
the advent of the Caesars, here all triumphs were decreed, here Rome wrote the
most memorable pages of its immortal history.
Next, on the western side of the Forum towards the Campidoglio is the
equestrian statue of Nerazio Cereale, the lapis niger (a square stone which
covers the remains of what is presumed to be the tomb of Romulus, and thus one
of the most significant relics of the city) and the grandiose triumphant arch
erected on the tenth anniversary of the ascent to the throne of Septimius
Severus, topped by trophies and statues of the Emperor with his sons Geta and
Caracalla. On the left of the arch is the Imperial Rostra, decorated with the
prows from ships captured from the Volscians in the battle of Anzio and
decorated with columns with honorary statues: from here the most famous Roman
orators spoke to the crowds and weighed their destiny. Next is the Umbilicus
Urbis, the symbolic centre of the Urbe, as well as the Volcanale or Altar of
Vulcano (one of the most ancient sanctuaries of Rome from the Regia era). A
bronze covered column stands which once bore golden letters signalling the
distances from the different cities of the empire to the capital; next is a
column erected in honour of Caio Dulio after the victory over the Carthaginians
at Milazzo. In the background on the same side at the foot of the Capitoline
hill in a dominant position is the Temple of Concord, erected to celebrate the
peace between the patricians and plebeians after the secession of the plebeians
of the Aventine hill; the Temple of Vespasian, built in honour of the first of
the Flavian emperors; the Portico of the Consenti, where images of the 12 great
divinities of Olympus were kept. Above emerge the grandiose heights of the
Tabularium and the Temple of Jupiter. On the northern side of the Forum is the
path of Clivo Capitolino, along which triumphant parades from the Via Sacra
climbed the Campidoglio, and above is the Temple of Saturn, where the State
treasure was kept and where during the Saturnial feasts crowds of patricians,
plebeians, owners and slaves thronged about the garlanded and decorated columns
in honour of the God Saturn, who had banished slavery from his happy kingdom.
Next is the arch of Tiberius, erected in honour of the victories of Germanico
over the Germans. Finally there is the Basilica Julia, where justice was
administered and where the centumvirate its their meetings in this structure of
5 naves which still preserve today the traces of the games of the lazy and the
less serious, with the statues on the columns on the side of the Forum. Next is
the temple of Castor and Pollux, constructed by the son of the dictator Aulo
Postumio in fulfilment of a vow made by the father to the Dioscuri before the
battle with the Latini and Tarquinians at the Regillo lake. Erected in 484 B.C.
and rebuilt many times, this construction still rings with the apostrophes of
Cicero and the invectives of Catone the Censor, its portico being where the
praetor sat, and from which Publio Cornelio Scipione Emiliano, conqueror of
Carthage, pronounced himself against the slaves who were assembled in the Forum
calling them "false sons of Italy". Beyond the temple of Castor and
Pollux is the Fountain of Juturna and the equestrian statues of the Dioscuri,
whose horses were drinking in the fountain when Juturna appeared to announce
the victory of the Romans. In the background is the Temple of Augustus with the
Atrium Minervae (the Roman military archives), where now the church of Santa
Maria Antiqua stands and holds within a rare series of murals from the 5th to
10th centuries. Finally, on the eastern side of the Forum is the Temple of
Caesar, preceded by a semicircular construction with a round altar in the
centre, on which the body of the dictator was cremated. In front of the portico
is a tribune decorated with the prows of enemy ships which Caesar created almost
in countering that of the Imperial Rostra, which was used until his arrival as
the protector of freedom. On the right is the triumphant arch of Augustus, from
which the circular Temple of Vesta can be scene, alongside which an elegant
marble edicola stands with the effigy of the goddess. Next is the royal
residence of Numa Pompilio, later the residence of the Popes. Along the central
line of the Forum, paved in travertine, is the equestrian statue of Constantine,
the colossal equestrian statue of Domitian taken down immediately after his
death for the damnation memoriae inflicted upon him by the Senate, which was a
closed off trapezoidal area in which the three sacred trees of Rome were kept:
the fig, the olive and the grape. Also here is the Lacus Curtius, what remains
of an ancient chasm in which M. Curzio, a young Roman knight of Sabine origin
threw himself armed and on horseback for the sake of his people, since the
oracle had predicted that the chasm would have closed only when Rome would have
thrown within what was dearest to her. The Column of Phocus is also located
here; it was servile homage of Esarca Smaragdo to the wonderful and clement
Phocus, honouring a dissolute and cruel Eastern Emperor. The statue of Phocus
which was on the column was then taken down as soon as the tyrant was deposed
and slain. On the right are the plutei of Trajan, bas-reliefs from the Rostra,
and further is the small Temple of Giano, whose doors remained closed in times
of peace. In front of the Basilica Julia are seven other honorary columns.
|