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FIRST ITINERARY THE CAPITOLINE HILL, THE ROMAN FORUM, THE PALATINE HILL, THE COLOSSEUM AND THE BASILICA OF ST. JOHN IN LATERAN |
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Foro Romano |
Departing from the Piazza del Campidoglio, we follow the road to the right
of the Palazzo Senatorio where we can see preserved part of the ancient Roman
pavement. Passing in front of the Tabularium, the ancient archive of the laws of
the Roman State on the ruins of which the Palazzo Senatorio is built, we finally
reach a small terrace which faces onto the Palatine and onto the Roman Forum. No
city in the world offers such a grandiose and imposing spectacle. At our feet we
have what was the capital of the world, and in front of us the Palatine, first
the primitive cradle of Rome and then the proud residence of the Caesars. On the
left, we have the Tabularium, the columns of the Temple of Vespasian and the
Portico of the Consenti. On the right is the Clivus Capitolino which led to the
Temple of Jupiter, father of all the Gods. In the background is the Temple of
Venus and Rome, under the shadows of the church of Santa Francesca Romana and
its campanile, and further on, the Colosseum. Within our view are the most
important monuments of ancient Rome: the Arch of Septimius Severus, the Arch of
Titus, the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, the Temple of Augustus, the
Basilica Julia, the Basilica of Constantine, the Basilica Emilia and the Temple
of Castor and Pollux, the Tomb of Romulus, the Column of Phocus. This solemn
scene brings to mind a world now no longer: little by little, as in an strange
hallucination it seems that our imagination gives life and form to the images we
see. At once we see the primitive kingdom of Evandro among the herds of cattle
grazing in the Forum, and the fig of Romulus. Here is the Via Sacra, along which
Romulus and Titus passed, consecrating the friendship between Romans and
Sabines. Here is the Fountain of Juturna where the horses of the Dioscuri drank:
there is the alter where the fire of Caesar broke out; there are the tribunes
decorated with the rostrums of enemy ships from which the orators addressed the
crowds; here is the Curia, a monument of superb juridical and administrative
knowledge, from which the Roman people dictated the law of the world; here is
where Orazio was deafened by the roaring screams of the crowd; here is the
circular Temple of Vesta erected by Numa Pompilio where the sacred fire to Vesta
burned. And from its atrium it still seems that virgins wander about solemnly
feeding the sacred flame of the Empire of the world, while a toga-dressed crowd
bustles through the Forum and the basilicas and a triumphant chariot advances
along the Via Sacra surrounded by the faithful guards bearing laurel
decorations, toward the Campidoglio to pay tribute to the Gods in the Temple of
Jupiter. One can almost hear the thousands of cheering voices saluting the
victor. Undoubtedly this is not a field of ruins. As Michelet rightly said, Rome
did not die here: "Qui porte en soi une force aimante éternelle ne
peut pas mourir!" But now it is time to leave the realm of dreams and cross
the threshold into the sacred area of the Roman Forum. First, however, it is
necessary to go pack to the Clivo Capitolino and the Clivo Argentario to Piazza
Venezia, at the beginning of the Via dei Fori Imperiali, where the remains of
the grandiose monuments of Rome of the Caesars await us.
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