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FIRST ITINERARY THE CAPITOLINE HILL, THE ROMAN FORUM, THE PALATINE HILL, THE COLOSSEUM AND THE BASILICA OF ST. JOHN IN LATERAN |
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Arco di Tito |
Now that we have listened to the solemn voice of the Forum, let us climb the
Palatine along the Clivus Palatinus, next to the Arch of Titus, or along the
Clivus Victoriae passing under the imposing structures which hide the ruins of
the Palazzo of Tiberius and the Lupercale (the cave where Romulus and Remus came
from, according to tradition), the most dignified access to the hill on which
primitive Rome rose and where the Caesars built their fabulous residences. But
very few traces remain of the primitive Rome because little by little the
emperors levelled and flattened everything, even modifying the vary topography
of the hill, and with Republican freedom buried under their gigantic buildings
every trace of the ancient city. And what remains of their marble palaces?
Little or nothing. While the imposing ruins of the Forum bring to life all the
grandeur of the moral and political centre of Rome at its height as well as the
proud battles of the Roman people for the defence of their liberty, the few
ruins left on the Palatine are not capable of giving us the slightest idea of
the golden palaces of the Caesars where the destiny of Rome was forged, because
very few parts have survived from these proud palaces which so often housed both
terror and betrayal. Not much is left of the stones which only the slaves had
trampled over. Slaves they were: even if they were really condottieri, poets,
high dignitaries, they had sold themselves and were in the service of tyranny
and despotism, in return for a favour from the monarchy which was so often cruel
and dissolute. Of Augustus, Ludovico Ariosto had this to say: |