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FIRST ITINERARY THE CAPITOLINE HILL, THE ROMAN FORUM, THE PALATINE HILL, THE COLOSSEUM AND THE BASILICA OF ST. JOHN IN LATERAN |
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Chiesa dei Quattro Coronati |
Continuing along the Via di San Giovanni in Laterano, immediately after San
Clemente on the right we see the profile of the grandiose apse of the Church of
the Santi Quattro Coronati, resembling more a medieval bastion than a church.
Nor is this impression altered when we pass under the stocky bell tower or
looking at the solitary square in front of the church from across the sharp arch
which we passed. The old church was sacked and burned by the Normans and
reconstructed by Pope Pasquale II, but in the new, much smaller construction the
apse of the old, much larger church was incorporated. This explains the
peculiarity of the apse, which is the sole example in Rome of where the apse
touches all three naves. The church's name derives from the four Roman soldiers
who refused to adore the statue of Esculapio and who were martyrred and then
canonized. Its dark wooden ceiling dates from the 1500s and was offered by the
Cardinal Enrico of Portugal. Also in the church is a gallery, 14th century
frescos and pavement. The dark walls of the convent hide a picturesque, romantic
and flower filled cloister dating from the beginning of the 13th century as well
as the chapel of San Silvestro and its superb 13th century Byzantine inspired
frescos. Let us now head towards the Romanesque portico of the Hospital of San
Giovanni which we can see at the end of the modest Via dei Santi Quattro
Coronati, and continue on towards the Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano. The
vast piazza is dominated by the colossal obelisk erected by Sixtus V where the
statue of Marcus Aurelius once stood (later moved to the Campidoglio) It is the
largest of the Egyptian obelisks in Rome, measuring without its base 32 meters
tall. Put up in Thebes by the pharaohs 15 centuries before Christ, it was
brought to Rome by Costanzo II, son of Constantine, in the year 357, for which a
special ship with 300 rowers was built. It was placed in the centre of Circus
Maximus, where it was found in three pieces in 1587. The back of the piazza is
occupied by the Palazzo del Laterano, the side of the Church of San Giovanni,
the Baptistry and the remains of a Roman construction. In this composition of
mixed eras, the 20th century couldn't be lacking, and just behind the Baptistry
is the Seminario Pontificio Romano, where young aspiring priests complete their
study in a setting of sober elegance and modernity.
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